Welcome Back To Paris, City Of Lights!
Behold Paris at night. It is one of the most magical cities in the world. Everywhere you turn, the city offers a explosion of light and timeless beauty…this is what I saw one night:
Yes, we took a dinner cruise on the Seine and went by the Eiffel Tower right during their nightly light show! What could top that?
Well, we are back in Paris for a very special reason: the Summer Olympic Games are about to begin! As you can see, the river Seine is lined with seating for the unprecedented opening ceremony Friday – as 4 miles of boats carrying all of the Olympic Athletes will float down the Seine!
The Arc de Triomphe is also decked out for the celebration – here’s a short snippet as we drove by one night:
The city is bustling with tourists, athletes and lots and lots of police!
Large parts of the city have been cordoned off, and police check for passes that allow you into certain areas…but this is as close as you will get to the Eiffel Tower:
Because of the use of the river Seine on opening night, the entire area is blocked off to everyone! But that’s OK, there is still plenty to do – so while we are here we have to try and get into one special restaurant – to have the best chicken in Paris!
Time To Love Some $100+ Chicken!
We’ve eaten here before, but need to get back in…to the home to the $125 Poulet Roti! Yes, that’s a VERY expensive chicken, but how can you argue when it comes from Chez L’Ami Louis, one of the most iconic bistros in Paris?
Welcome To Chez L’Ami Louis!
Here we are: the legendary Chez L’Ami Louis. This restaurant has been called “the world’s most famous bistro” – tucked away in the 3rd arrondissement of Paris – it has only twelve tables and serves meals in a traditional French setting.
The interior is pure bistro – and as noted, very small and very difficult to get in to…the classic dark wood paneling seems SOAKED in history…
The restaurant was founded by the chef Antoine Magnin, who died in 1987. His picture hangs right next to our table, taken by a legendary French Actress. Sorry for the glare, but you get the idea: he was one classic looking French Chef.
Right inside the door is a classic wooden stove, a lacquered mini-heater – that’s the best way describe it – no longer used for heating but beautiful in its history…
Let Me Hang Your Coat!
One of the funniest things I noticed was the manner in which the waiters took care of your coat – they took it from you, and with a quick flick of the arm, sent it over your head and up onto the rack above your table – see the one hanging right over the woman’s head? It was effortless and hilarious!
Time to get to the food…first, the menu – I didn’t get ALL of it, but most, and as you can see, the menu isn’t that large, but I think everyone is there for one thing anyway – the Poulet Roti for two:
Let’s Start With Some Foie!
Before the main course, you have to have a starter. Chez L’Ami Louis is known for their foie gras – so we ordered it to start – and here is what showed up: a huge portion of the silkiest, most delicious tasting foie gras I have ever had:
As you can see, gorgeous slabs of foie, presented with a stack of nicely grilled french bread:
It didn’t take long to get this first appetizer on the bread:
Time For The Vegetable Course!
Time to get some green going, and what green it is!
The Gault Millau guide said that Chef Magnin had “an eagle eye for choosing produce” and that the meat and poultry he served was the best in Paris. Well, based on the huge stalks of fresh asparagus we were served, we couldn’t argue – and it came with a beautiful vinaigrette that was literally overflowing with herbs!
And once coated, the asparagus literally glistened with flavor! Oh, if you noticed on the menu, this dish was 62 euros – so you are looking at an $85 asparagus dish! And you know what? WORTH EVERY PENNY!
Time For The $100 Chicken!
Time for the main attraction: Chez L’Ami Louis is famous for their Poulet Roti for 2 – a gorgeously roasted chicken, which is brought to your table for inspection after the roasting is complete:
The chicken sells for 85 euros for two – currently just over $100 – take a look at the dish as they deliver it to your table:
First thing they deliver is the breast, still attached to the bone, along with herbs and the most delicious roasting juices you can imagine:
Wait! What Is THAT??????
Yes, in the picture above you can see the chicken on the left – but what is that to the upper right?
The Chez L’Ami Louis Potato Cake!
Yes, the chicken comes with a side dish: a beautifully roasted potato cake, topped with freshly chopped garlic and herbs – and you are in charge of mixing it all together!
There must be something in those L’Ami ovens, as the roasted flavor of these potatoes was simply amazing – and when you mix in the fresh garlic and herbs, the dish takes on a whole new flavor that is beyond description.
More Chicken! Yes, MORE CHICKEN!
After you are served the breast, they take the chicken away…but there is more: after you finish your first plate of poulet, they bring out the rest of the bird:
What is truly amazing is that this chicken STILL glistens with juice – and the flavor of the roasted skin has seemed to get more intense by resting it…
The flavor isn’t the taste of chicken that we are used to in the states – it’s so much richer in flavor and depth, clearly a chicken that ran around in a wide open space and lived an active life: the flavor was intense, rich and satisfying in a way you can only get from great great food, prepared properly….
It’s a great feast – no dessert necessary – and I love that potato cake so much I made it at home!
Yep, this is what I made and I love it – and you can make it too!
Here’s the recipe!
There is so much incredible food in Paris…like the “all pig all the time” restaurant!
This is an incredible pigs trotter at a restaurant that loves pigs – check out “Au Pied de Cochon” here!
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Categories: cookbooks, Exotic Travel, Food, food blog, Food Review, Memoirs, Paris, Recipes, Restaurants, Travel, Travel Adventures, Travel Memoir, Wacky Food
johnrieber 
Yummy, you are living the life.
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looks like the city is excited and ready to go! and that chicken – wow. also impressed how you choose your own adventure a bit, mixing and adding the herbs and sauce as you like. Alex must have been happy with the potatoes –
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We are having a great run so far with potatoes…they just LOVE them here! I ordered an omelet for breakfast and it came with a side of fires! HA! Thanks for commenting, much appreciated!
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I see your future John . . . A second career as a travel writer. Move over Rick Steves. Ha, ha, a beautiful piece.
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Thank for reading and commenting! I shared with Beetleypete that since they put in new anti-spam safeguards, my views and comments have plummeted by 70% – raising the issue of where sharing these stories is worth it or not.
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Yes, WP can be frustrating. My hits have gone down this year too. I knew they would a little because I’ve cutback to three days a week, but it does feel like more is at play. I feel the same frustration. I always talk about quitting, but I still get too much enjoyment. Hang in there. You have a different take, love your blog.
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You already have great experience of that lovely city, and I have no doubt you will be adding to it even more on this trip.
Best wishes, Pete.
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Pete, you really have to love LOTS of police and barricades on this trip but I’ve found the areas you can still move around!
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Looks like you are having a great time. Hope you are on an expense account. Those prices sure aren’t the KFC variety.
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HA! My wife is working so yes we have a bit of flexibility! That said, my favorite lunch today was a ham and cheese baguette with a bottle of water – total 6 euros! Delicious, filling and economical!
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Sounds great.
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