Jackson Mississippi! A Southern Town With A Segregated Civil Rights History!

welcome-to-jackson-mississippi

Welcome To Jackson!

Well, that’s a friendly greeting! I visited Jackson, Mississippi in late 2015 with the best of intentions: and as I always do, I added a few days to my trip to have time to check out the city…

jackson-capitol-skyline

The city is named after General Andrew Jackson, who was honored for his role in the Battle of New Orleans during the War of 1812 and later served as U.S. President.

I chose to stay in the historic downtown area, where the state capital was located…

mississippi-state-capital-in-jackson

I chose the historic King Edward Hotel downtown, which was declared a Mississippi landmark in 1990. It was also closed and vacant for nearly forty years before being completely renovated in 2006 – and it is now a Hilton Garden Inn…

king-edward-hotel-jackson-mississippi


Frank Sinatra! The Rat Pack! Jackson’s Racial Divide!

My visit began with a sobering note…

When I arrived at the Jackson-Medgar Evers International Airport, I grabbed a cab and headed to my hotel. The airport was small, and there was an older Yellow Cab sitting out front. My driver was a 75-year old black man who told me he’d lived his entire life in the city.

frank-sinatra-the-rack-pack

This was my first trip to the “deep south”: I grew up in Seattle, so I had never “walked through” the history of segregation in this part of the country in person.

As we drove to my hotel, the Cab driver told me a story, involving Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr and my iconic hotel: in the 60’s, when the rat pack came to town to perform, they stayed at The King Edward.

the-rat-pack-segregation-story

My Cab driver told me that when they arrived, Frank demanded that the entire entourage, including Sammy Davis Jr, be housed at the hotel.

He paused for a moment in case I didn’t understand the implication.

“So the hotel was segregated at the time?” I asked, and he nodded.

sammy-davis-jr-frank-sinatra

“Yes”, he told me, “but Frank got what Frank wanted, so Sammy stayed with the rest of the Rat Pack at the hotel.”

At this point, my 75-year told black Cab driver paused again before he continued with the devastating punchline to the story:

“After they left town”, he told me, “the entire hotel closed up…”

He paused again as if remembering the pain of what he was about to say….then added:

“the entire hotel closed so that they could wash it down to get rid of any evidence of Sammy staying there.”

Wow. I was, indeed, in the deep south – a south that has terrible history of racial injustice, violence, and segregation.

segreated_bathrooms

I am glad that I am too young to have lived through this shocking period on our country’s history: it’s impossible to imagine that signs like this were everywhere in the south – hard to imagine that segregation ever existed.

The great film “Hidden Figures” includes a subplot regarding segregated bathrooms as part of the film:

hidden-figures-750x315_orig

You can see more about that here:

https://johnrieber.com/2017/01/23/the-phenomenon-of-hidden-figures-shining-a-light-on-neglected-history/

I was to see many more examples of this past when I took a walk around the downtown area…

jackson-mississippis-freedom-trail

Jackson’s “Freedom Trail!”

There are plenty of opportunities to put yourself in history here: there are many signs like this that showcase important locations in the fight for civil rights and desegregation.

As wikipedia reports:

“the mass demonstrations of the 1960s were initiated with the arrival of more than 300 Freedom Riders on May 24, 1961. They were arrested in Jackson for disturbing the peace after they disembarked from their interstate buses.”

greyhound-bus-stopjackson-freedom-trail

jackson-greyhound-station-freedom-trail-historical-site

The Greyhound station is still there, and the sign gives an in-depth history of the events that took place there in the 60’s…

medgar-evers-auto-briography

Remember that I arrived at Jackson-Medgar Evers Airport? As wikipedia reports:

“In Jackson, shortly after midnight on June 12, 1963, Medgar Evers, civil rights activist and leader of the Mississippi chapter of the NAACP, was assassinated by Byron De La Beckwith, a white supremacist associated with the White Citizens’ Council.”

So here was another piece of history – a great Civil Rights leader murdered simply because he wanted equal rights.

Walking further, I came across this historic spot as well:

jackson-mississippi-woolworths-counter-protest


The Woolworth’s Counter Sit-In!

The building is gone now, but this was the site of a crucial moment in civil rights history: can you even imagine a time when black students would be attacked for daring to sit down with white customers? It’s sobering to read these signs and realize the violence that surrounded the struggle for civil rights.

As wikipedia notes:

“Segregation and the disfranchisement of African Americans gradually ended after the Civil Rights Movement gained Congressional passage of the Civil Rights Act of 1964 and Voting Rights Act of 1965. In June 1966, Jackson was the terminus of the James Meredith March, organized by James Meredith, the first African American to enroll at the University of Mississippi.”

As I wandered through downtown Jackson, I thought about the history that I had seen up close, and it was surprising to see that the state flag had a confederate symbol on it:

jackson-mississippi-courthouse

mississippi-state-flag-confederate-seal

There have been attempted to have it removed, but so far none have been enacted. It was a Saturday, and most of the state capital buildings were closed….infact, the entire downtown seemed closed up:

jackson-city-hall

downtown-jackson-mississippi

The more I walked around, the more desolate and abandoned the downtown area felt to me…here are some of the images I captured on this bright, sunny and deserted day in Jackson:

abandoned-jackson-building

empty-jackson-mississippi-buildings

jackson-sun-and-sand

jackson-mississippi-parkingmeters

empty-jackson-store

i was struck by how dead it was…while it was a saturday, and was the state capital, there was no one there. I know that was was on the edge of Jackson’s downtown, but it was eerily quiet, even in the historic Mayflower cafe:

mayflower-cafe-jackson

mayflower-cafe-lunch-counter

shrimp-poboy-sandwich

I ordered a Shrimp Po’Boy, then headed back out – I came across another historical site: The Greenwood Cemetery.

historic-greenwood-cemetary-jackson

gravestone-jackson-mississippi

That seemed to sum up my excursion around town that day…now I know that there are vibrant parts of the city, no doubt surrounding the many colleges in the area: but the historic part of downtown Jackson was desolate…I changed my ticket and left the next day – there was nothing else for me to see.

king-edward-hotel

I began on a downbeat note about my Hotel, which was segregated at one time as were many of Jackson’s businesses. The city has been the center of our country’s civil rights movement, and some of those scars are still there.

king-edward-hotel-interior-jackson

The renovated King Edward Hotel itself was beautiful and had a great staff…in fact, as I was leaving I passed a sixty-year old black Bellman, who was doing something that almost made me laugh out loud:

He was whistling “The Wreck Of The Edmond Fitzgerald” by Gordon Lightfoot!

king-edward-hotel-jackson-mississippi

There are large areas of the south that have been left to decay and die…and a legendary Travel Writer wrote about them:

Paul Theroux Deep South

This fascinating book is a trip through the backroads of Mississippi, Georgia, Alabama and more…read about it here:

https://johnrieber.com/2016/08/09/travel-the-deep-south-two-new-memoirs-capture-life-down-south-in-dixie/

The other terrific look at life down south is from a great Author Richard Grant:

Dispatches from Pluto

Grant lived in Pluto, Mississippi and wrote about his adventures – with a revealing look at how segregated the state still is today – by choice. Check out this terrific book here:

https://johnrieber.com/2015/10/12/dispatches-from-pluto-terrific-new-american-travel-richard-grants-dangerous-adventures/

Finally, I also took a trip through rural Oklahoma in late 2015, and saw many of the same things:

rush-springs-oklahoma

There’s no doubt that many parts of rural America are simply dying out – here are some pictures of the ghost towns I saw in Oklahoma:

https://johnrieber.com/2016/11/12/morning-in-red-state-america-how-the-dying-towns-of-oklahoma-help-explain-election-2016/

I am glad that Jackson has put up so many reminders of its troubled past, so that we can learn and move forward….



Categories: Africa, Art, Books / Media, documentary films, Exotic Travel, Food, food blog, Food Review, Memoirs, Politics, Talent/Celebrities, Travel, Travel Adventures, Travel Memoir, Uncategorized, Wacky Food

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10 replies

  1. Great post John, even while telling some sad parts of our nation’s history. They must be remembered.
    Thanks for bringing the history to life!

  2. I had heard the story about Sammy Davis and the hotel before. But even in 2017, it is hard to believe that they closed down the hotel to wash it…

    I do love those Art Deco buildings though, and it is a great shame to see this famous city in such a decline. Because of my interest in the US Civil War, I would like to see the CSA graves, and also the Stars and Bars flying. But I do appreciate the racial overtones, even though I am English.

    Is this the same Jackson that Johnny Cash was going to, I wonder?
    Best wishes, Pete.

  3. I feel sad about the economic downturn in this part of the world. I fear a similar thing in South Australia with car plants closing down. Surely you’re going to need vibrant rural communities in the future? A painful part of history too, so many brave lives lost and risked for freedom we take for granted.

  4. Excellent post, John. I’ve been to every state except 3. Mississippi is one of them. I have never desired to go in part because of its history and the humidity and there were so many other great states to visit. I’m glad you had a good time, and thanks for sharing about Paul T. The cab driver story about Sammy had me shaking my head.

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