
Got Your Attention?
When I say we got “up close and personal” with some Lions on our safari, I’m not kidding!
I’ve got the story of an incredible, VERYCLOSE encounter with a pride of Lions as they were finishing devouring their kill.
Not only were we close, they were VERY volatile – here’s a look:
Now that I have your attention, let me set up this incredible Lion encounter: we were staying at the Dinaka private reserve, which covers over 40,000 hectares on the northern edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve.

We were staying at the private Ker And Downey lodge, a terrifically retro throwback to the classic safari camps in Botswana…here is the traditional greeting as we arrived:
The name “Dinaka” means “horns” in the local language, likely a reference to the wildlife in the area.After checking in, we were walked to our tented room:

I felt like this is the kind of room that Ernest Hemingway stayed in on his safari adventures a century ago – that said, the lodge is a wonderful retreat in a very remote location, with a real sense of camaraderie. It sits in the middle of the Kalahari Desert:

The terrain is rough, and very sandy as well. But it is all about the animals, so let’s get going! Here’s what every morning was like:
We headed out every morning at the crack of dawn: Dinaka is in the Kalahari desert, which means bright sunny 70 degree days and 35 degree nights!

Our terrific Guide – knew we wanted to see some wildlife, and he didn’t disappoint! As an expert animal tracker, he not only found the tracks, but knew how many different Lions made up the pride:

Those Lion tracks told him where the pride was, and as we drove slowly up to them, here is what we saw – note, there will be a bit of “eating” underway, not too graphic but don’t click the link if you aren’t interested in that:
And here’s a look at just how close up we were – note that this video shows them eating some animal parts as well, but no flowing blood or graphic images, they are finishing up – but if you are sensitive to the idea of that, please don’t play the video:
As the feeding continues, a few of the Lions began to groom each other, licking some of the dried blood off each other!

Alex captured a number of videos and photos of Lions very close to me – here’s a video of me checking my video while a Lion wanders by!

The feeding lasted almost a half hour, and it was fascinating to watch, until Alex told me I had three Lions over my shoulder – here’s that video:
This was so cool to watch – and surprisingly, we weren’t nervous with so many hungry Lions roaming around us – and the dynamic was interesting, especially because the main Lions were not letting any of the females feed, which created this standoff!

That night at the Ker & Downey Dinaka lodge, we celebrated with a great feast and some performances by the staff – and we were all encouraged to join in!
This was such an incredible Lion encounter and celebration, but we’ve had a number of wild Lion sightings on this safari:

This Lion was one of 17 who had a raucous encounter with a Baboon!
See that here!
I also just shared our crazy encounter with an “Elephant In Musth”:

That Elephant is in “musth” – and those are our Mokoro canoes in the march in front of him. Guess who didn’t go on a canoe right that day?
Clcik here for the story, and who won the face off!

The Okavango Delta marches were also a great hangout for Hippos as well!
Yep, this Hippo was excited to see us! Click here for our cool Hippo encounter:
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Categories: Africa, Exotic Travel, Memoirs, nature, safari, Travel, Travel Adventures, Travel Memoir
That’s really close! We got fairly close to resting lions in Kenya, but never got to see any feeding. Your guide really knows his stuff.
Best wishes, Pete.
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Pete, it wasn’t unsettling, but it was I you get what I’m trying to say – they showed no interest in us, but were in the middle of a feeding frenzy and we were sitting among them! Something else! Thanks for the comment!
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And there were three lions over your shoulder? 😳 Thank goodness for your guide. How interesting that he could tell by the tracks how many lions were in the pride and where they were. Your room was gorgeous, and you’re right, it was probably like Ernest Hemingway’s room. I did pass on the eating video, but enjoyed the music and dancing. Thanks, John.
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Thanks so much for the comment! While not really any more graphic than watching a butter cut meat, they WERE feeding on a dead animal so I didn’t want to surprise anyone on that count. As for the number of them it wa surreal to see them wander all around us so close…thanks again for the comment!
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Surreal is a good word! I appreciate the feeding video feedback, but will pass on viewing. 🙂 Best to you, John.
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You really did have an exciting time, didn’t you! Reading this after I reposted an idea to watch Sir David Attenborough’s ‘Asia’ at the moment being shown Friday nights here Down Under . . . your real-life-description of your experience came next on my read-list > how appropriate > may I say ‘wow’ and repost also 🙂 !
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Woah, I couldn’t look too close, and you guys were awfully close !)
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Thanks for the safari, I’m unlikely to be going on one, but I’m glad the lions had plenty to eat. It looked quite a walk to your accommodation, giving a new meaning to ‘the boardwalk’.
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I would have been nervous as a hooker in church being that close……what a great adventure. chuq
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HA! We were, but also not too much, because they literally had all they could handle with that dead Kudu, and they rarely glance upward, as all of their food is eye level, and usually running right in front of them away!
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Totally cool! Did the lion’s growling sound as fierce in person or does the video somehow amplify it? I’d be shaking in my safari boots.
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It was loud in person! That was one of the only times we wondered if they would start fighting toward us and it was a bit unsettling, but our expert guide keeps a close eye on every animal we got near to make sure they didn’t see us as anything but a big metal box on wheels! Thanks for the note, always great to hear from you!
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Gorgeous lions, John. A marvelous sighting.
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Thanks Robbie, you inspired us with all of your postings over the years!
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Yay! We are going to see the turtle hatching at St Lucia in Kwa-Zulu Natal in early Jan. I am excited.
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That sounds amazing!
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I’m watching the videos and I’m scared for you John. The lions are a stones throw away. Wouldn’t take much for one of the pride of get upset and start looking for new “meat,” right? Ha, ha. Yea, yea, you’re posting so I know you made it back safely, but damn they were close. Don’t you need a big cage or something over the jeep. Yikes. This is why I would never be a great adventurer! Ha, ha.
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Great images by the way. Such a neat trip.
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Thanks it was really magical!
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Great question: it’s an OPEN AIR JEEP WITH NO WINDOWS. The animals don’t see a big Jeep and people sitting up in it as anything edible. Their food is eye level on the ground. That’s why the first rule of safari is “DON’T RUN. FOOD RUNS!” Thanks for the note, I will say that there were a number of times I was tense, especially around Lions and Elephants.
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Wouldn’t they still smell humans? I would have to keep reminding myself of that … food runs. Ha ha. You’re right too. It’s not just lions but the elephants too. So big.
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Strangely enough, WE DON’T SMELL LIKE FOOD! Their instincts are for the animals around them, and when there are thousands and thousands of Kudu, Impala and more, we really don’t make an impression!
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